Cheese is from the Earth not the Moon

As children, many of us were jokingly taught that the moon was made of cheese. What a delicious thought! For me, that would mean a big cheese celebration! Many people know me realize I am mad about cheese in all its shapes, colors and forms. What I love most about specialty cheese is that it is a reflection of the bounty and distinct individuality of every patch of earth where it has been derived.

With April being the month we celebrate Earth Day, my thoughts immediately turn to verdant, rolling hills of green grass:  Our beautiful earth!

Most folks don’t perceive cheese as being from the earth but it truly is. Cheese is the ultimate product of what the French call terroir.  Terroir is defined by several factors but most importantly it is the combination of the soil, geography, air, wind, sun and terrain that gently as well as fiercely mold a specialty food product into what it ultimately becomes.

Picture soft haired, caramel brown dairy cows in the lush hillsides of Normandy, France quietly munching on green grass and the occasional tart apple. Picture those same dairy cows soaking up the sun’s rays and wandering through large pastures. Think also about the heritage of the people that live in that region and how important cheese making has been for centuries to its’ residents. One can even trace back the heritage of Normandy’s most famous cheese, Camembert to one “milkmaid”, Ms. Marie Harel.

So, you ask, what exactly is terroir? Terroir is the combination of microclimate and regional culture of a very specific spot on the map along with all of the knowledge and passion that gets passed down from that area’s collection of expert specialty food producing families over hundreds of years. Now, pick some ripe Camembert at your local ShopRite. Unwrap it gently and place on a cutting board. Let it “breath” at room temperature for an hour or so. Then, cut a wedge of the camembert, smell the rind and the inner paste. Can you smell the earth? Can you picture the cow that grazed on that most unique landscape in Normandy, France? Can you visualize the inventor of Camembert, Ms. Harel, hand ladling the cheese curds into small round molds that ultimately were aged, hand-wrapped & served in the most royal of households ?

To me, the finest cheeses and finest wines are the ultimate products of terroir. The distinct qualities of the earth & landscape that the dairy animal grazes on; the direction of the sun; the speed & aroma of the breeze as well as the minerals in the water directly affects the flavor of the cheese that is ultimately produced in a certain village, state or country. In this modern day era of mass production of food and uniformity of food products, specialty cheese is one of the last bastions of true uniqueness in perishable food. Specialty cheese is never boring, just as the earth is never boring. Here are a couple examples…

There’s sheep grazing on rocky, salt laden landscape in southern Italy. Winds from the coast also transport salt in the humid sea air the sheep breath. Their milk is not as rich as milk from sheep that graze on green pastures; it is “lean” and lower in butterfat. What cheese inherits the experience and lifestyle of these rugged sheep? It’s Pecorino Romano. Traditionally produced in the green hills around Rome many hundreds of years ago, the true Roman Pecorino can be almost impossible to find and quite rich from its’ higher butterfat content. These days, Pecorino Romano is mostly produced in Sardinia, a Southern region of Italy with the rugged landscape I described. Taste a bit of this hard, salty grating cheese, close your eyes and picture those sheep grazing on rocky, almost grey land and you can taste the terroir.

This doesn’t mean that you have to be in Europe to produce or taste good cheese. Picture the lush green pastures of Vermont, Wisconsin and California. A couple generations ago, master cheese makers from Europe emigrated to these and other U.S. states and brought their cultural heritage and cheese making expertise with them. In a way, they brought a piece of their native terroir with them to their new homeland. Combine all that with the different soil nutrients in each of those states, a different wind direction, new technologies and innovations. The result is specialty products that speak of the American terroir.

Can you taste the difference between English cheddar and Vermont cheddar? Have you ever tried to compare the flavor of French, Irish and US made Plugra “European Style” butter? These are all products of terroir and the flavor variations are astounding.

Did the cows munch marigolds with their grazing? The resulting cheese may have somewhat of a ‘floral” note and may have that buttery yellow color. Or, were the cows factory fed hay all year for flavor consistency?

There are well fed cows in Parma, Italy. Parma’s landscape and agricultural riches are famous the world over. These grass fed cows produce some of the richest milk in the world. When the cheese curds are produced from this milk, the whey is given to the pigs who become Prosciutto Di Parma. The resulting cheese of these curds is often called the King of cheese and can be considered somewhat costly. In Italy, it is so valuable; it is often stored in special banks not unlike currency! What great cheese has this distinct terroir and cultural heritage produced? The great Parmigiano-Reggiano. There is one and only one Parmigiano-Reggiano and it is the greatest parmesan in the world. You may stumble upon something called Reggianito Parmesan in our specialty cheese case. This is not meant to confuse you, I assure you! Cheese makers moved all over the world after the first and second world wars. Where did many of the Italian cheese makers move to? Argentina ! Can you make the king of Parmesan in Argentina? No and yes. No, you can’t make Parmigiano-Reggiano because that is a distinct, highly regulated product of the terroir of Parma, Italy. It is so highly regulated; it actually is a D.O.P. product. D.O.P. products are designated by the European Union for their distinct uniqueness and reflection of the very specific terroir, production techniques and cultural heritage of the place where the product is made. With that said, for half the price of the “King” of cheese, the consumer can purchase“parmesan” made in Argentina called Reggianito. Is it exquisite, sublime, refined and complex like the D.O.P. Reggiano? Absolutely not. Would the Reggianito taste like basic parmesan on tonight’s cheese ravioli? Sure! Taste the Reggianito – you will taste its’ terroir as well. Neither one are good or bad, just different terroir.

Blue cheese is a great example of what I’m talking about. Some cheese mongers complain about all of the blue cheese varieties. They seem to feel that blue cheese is blue cheese and you only need a few. That’s like saying Merlot is Merlot! First, is the blue cheese cow’s milk, sheep’s milk or goat’s milk? Is it produced on a factory farm or in small batches? Was it aged in stainless steel aging rooms or the ancient rocky caves of Roquefort, France? Was the blue mold injected into the cheese or stirred into the curds? Is the blue low in butterfat or is it a brie like double or triple cream?

Consider cheese tasting like going on a walking journey through hills and pastures, sun, wind and rain. It’s a trip to the past as well as through the present. Cheddar cheese with cranberries? That’s a clear example of the rich history of cheddar cheese making influenced by modern consumer tastes and preferences.

You will never get bored of specialty cheese if you view it as a taste of terroir; a taste of our beautiful earth.

Here is a short list of some of my favorite specialty cheeses that offer a great reflection of terroir.

Chef Faith

Chef Faith’s Cheese Picks

Grafton Cheddar – Made from the rich milk of very content cows from Vermont. These cows are definitely not “factory farmed but rather the beneficiaries of the perfectly scenic New England countryside. Perfectly sharp, deliciously complex compared to mass market cheddars. ShopRite’s cheese mongers actually travel to Vermont to prepare our own batch of this special reserve cheddar.

Cambozola Blue – Triple cream, soft ripened Blue. Rich, creamy and spread able. Wonderful when gently melted over artichoke or vegetable ravioli. A taste of the Bavarian countryside.

Dutch Gouda – Holland has a long tradition of master cheese makers. Dutch Gouda at its simplest is a semi-soft mild “everyman’s cheese” that is a sure bet on any cheese board. These days you can find artisan made Gouda, extra aged Gouda, and Gouda with herbs, even 4 year aged Gouda. The more the Gouda is aged, the more depth and complexity it has. Usually made from cow’s milk but goat’s milk Gouda is also available and is especially delicious.

Comté French Gruyère – A taste of the small dairies run by local villagers in the French Alps. Morning milk and evening milk are combined for an unforgettable taste. Not just a cheese for fondue. Try shredded over spring vegetables, quick pasta dishes.

Manchego – Produced from 100% sheep’s milk from sheep that graze the wind swept, rocky and picturesque landscape that is abundant in wild herbs and flowers around La Mancha Spain.

Explorateur – Super decadent, runny, triple cream brie like cheese. This cheese can be difficult to find but well worth the wait and the price. A triumph of French terroir!

Ask your local ShopRite specialty cheese expert for their suggestions of artisan made smaller batch cheeses from the U.S. that are truly special and unique.